Dear BMX Plus experts,
My parents had just bought me a 2014 WeThePeople Crysis. I am probably the
happiest teenager on earth. However, after a few hours of getting accustomed
to the feel of a bmx bike (I am used to a mountain bike), it has developed a
sharp creak/click in the headset. Those people at the shop are real gorillas,
I am sure they have over-tightened all the bolts. I winced when they put on
the pegs, and I nearly fainted when they have “forgotten” to do the usual X
pattern when tightening the topload stem.
Anyway, I loosened all the bolts at the head, retightened them, adjusted the
stem cap…but the click is still there! I disassembled and reassembled the
headset two times. At the second time, my dad helped me and the click went
away for a few days, just to gradually come back ringing in my ears. The
bearings look ok to me… What should I do next that I have forgotten? Could
my headtube be ovalized? When I turn the handle bars past 3 or 9 o’clock the
sharp creak comes up. It only happens when I turn them slowly. It is not very
noticeable when riding, but it bugs me that my bmx is not perfect… Could the
sound be related to the bearings not breaking in yet? Or because of a grain of
dust somewhere critical?
I have different dirt jump spots that I have prepared a long time ago, all
over my farm, I have just cleared a path from jump to jump.There are nasty
bumps all over the place, from my house to the jumps. Will my frame last
I ride with a freecoaster, and it sure is weird. Are there any specific
riding techniques that I should avoid, or is it rugged like a cassette?
I might have broken the record for the most questions in one email. Thanks
a lot for your time. I love the magazine, don’t even dare to stop making it!
A bmx rider all the way from Laos, Xang Noi. (Yep, it’s a tricky name!).
No worries Mommanie. The headset is a totally common issue. This sounds like (and we cant say for sure without the bike in hand) the headset is just dry, and not the bearings but the tapered top and bottom races that the bearings ride on. If your fork has a built in race then no worries there, but the top is a separate piece that slides over the fork and held in place by pressure put on the top cap when you adjust your preload bolt. Many of these top races have a cut in them to allow them to spread and fit micro variations in steertube diameters. Now, pressure wants this ring to stay, but friction wants it to move and the click is the end result. Try a lightweight liquid lube, like Triflow and drip two or three drops into the thin gap between your top cap and the headtube. Ride around for a few minutes to let this soak in and it should solve your problem.
Your bike is awesome and will handle a lifetime of bumpy trails and some of the toughest street, park and dirt riding you could dream of. It is a full chromoly frame, fork and bar packed with top of the line parts. Tough to go wrong. We have said it before and we will say it again, WTP bikes aren’t the least expensive bikes out there but they are very well designed and spec’ed.
As for the freecoaster, it will wear out faster then the average cassette hub, but there is no need to ride or treat it any differently. The only thing you will want to try and avoid is locking it up when you half cab out of the every day fakie. Work on getting your cabs smooth and without the need of loading up the cranks and chances are it will last you a lifetime. Save the front pedal throttle for when you are doing cabs up stuff and need a little more pop.
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