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Learn how to adjust your new KHE Reverse or Federal freecoaster hubs exactly to your liking


Since this is one of the coolest features these hubs have to offer, we strongly suggest you don’t just sit there, learning to live with what you get out of the box, and take advantage of the benefits a custom tailored adjustment will offer your riding.

1: KHE was kind enough to key the ends of the axle for a 6mm Allen wrench so the lock nuts and spacers can be easily removed one side at a time.

2: The driver can now be removed by pulling out firmly while turning it in an unthreading, or backpedaling motion. Keep in mind we said “firmly,” not to be confused with “the use of power tools”, but you probably don’t want to be pulling it directly towards your face either.

3: The axle can now be tapped out from the drive side to the non-drive side. KHE very strongly suggests a rubber mallet to do the task without damaging the threads, but if you don’t happen to have one, we suggest taking every precaution to pad the blows of a regular hammer with a thick rag.


4: This will drive out the axle, bearing and driver stop. You will find play between the stop and the bearing, responsible for your forward pedaling slack and rearward rolling catch.

5: The bearing can now be removed from the axle, easily done by hand, or with a light tap from your rubber mallet if you haven’t been hitting the gym as of late.

6: The Reverse hub comes complete with three thin spacers used to limit the space between the stop and the bearing, thus reducing slop. The more spacers, the less the slop, so adjust accordingly. We opted to add two of the three as first-timers.

7: Reinstall the bearing to sandwich the spacers. Remember, there will always be some play, this is how the hub operates, so don’t try adding more then the provided spacers, or your hub will not freecoast, or freewheel, it will simply lock up.

8: When we disassemble parts for the first, tenth or thousandth time, we always like to keep our ducks in a row to avoid confusion, sliding each piece off and placing it face down in the proper order and side.

9: To reinstall the bearing and axle on the non-drive side, here is a cool trick. Find an old 14mm peg, slide it over the axle and up against the bearing. Using a hammer, lightly tap the peg to press the bearing back into the hub shell. You may not be able to get the bearing all the way back into the shell, but don’t stress, you will seat it all the way into the shell by tightening the lock nuts in the final step.


10: Now you can install all the parts from the non-drive side by simply moving backwards through your line-up of parts, all the way to the lock nut.

11: With that done, you can switch sides and install all of the drive side hardware up to the lock nut.

12: Just in case you didn’t heed our suggestion to keep your parts in order, the knurled face of the lock nuts face outward to grip the inside of the dropouts.

13: Now you can tighten up the lock nuts using the Allen key and wrench. By tightening them down you will also seat the bearings the remainder of the way. Both the non-drive side spacer and driver should sit flush with the hub shell when the lock nuts are properly tightened.

14: Congratulations, you now have a custom adjusted freecoaster to go and tear up the streets with, so quit sitting there and start tearing.


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